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Travelogue Germany 1993

EPISODE 3

Hostel Breakfast

Sleeping in an old fortress turned out to be alot more pleasant than I had initially imagined. Instead of dungeon-like rooms with cold floors and stony beds, our hostel room was quite warm and the bunk beds were realtively comfortable. We both dressed and did some pre-packing to prepare for our departure later that morning.

The dining area was on the other side of the courtyard, in the main section of the complex-- and it was already noisy because a whole squadron of kids had arrived and had were starting breakfast. Martin informed me that it was common for German school kids to take extended week-long field trips to youth hostels during the school year-- a kind of long-term field trip.

This was my first experience staying at a youth hostel, and eating in a hostel kitchen. I didnt realize that after breakfast, guests were expected to help wash and/or dry dishes and clean the dining area, which were actually quite an effecient means of keeping the costs of youth hostels down for travelers. After about ten or fifteen minutes of cleaning, sweeping, collecting and drying dishes, we were free to go. All in all, not a bad deal for a bit less than fifteen bucks a night!

Hike in the Woods

After breakfast, packing up our luggage and loading it into the car, we decided to take a final hike out on the trails around the fortress. It was a cool, damp morning and with a blue-gray sky overhead, that made it feel like an autumn day.

Trails led us down into a valley and then back up to a hill directly across from Burg Wildenstein. The narrow pathway we followed up the side of the hill widened as we reached the crest of the hill, and we passed several other hikers traveling in the opposite direction. We passed several clearings in the trees that provided great views of the fortress from the west, one with a gorgeous view of the fortress. Looking to my right and straight down, I saw the Danube river, now a narrow blue ribbon, far below in the lush valley. We took time out for a few minutes-- to shoot a few photographs and take a break from hiking.

To make things more interesting on the walk back, we chose to follow an alternate route-- the long way home-- back to the car. At one point during the return trip, we came across several large piles of pine trees laying along the path. Martin mentioned that a fierce thunderstorm had torn through the area recently, which probably was been responsible for the damage.

A few minutes later, we arrived att the car, we spent several minutes relaxing and eating a quick lunch before setting off for our next destination-- Switzerland.

The Lake of Constance

The body of water that physically separetes Germany and Switzerland is called the Lake of Constance, or Bodensee by the Germans and Swiss. This lake was our next destination on the tour. All along the winding roadway toward the Swiss border, there are small towns that line the edges of the lake providing travelers many opportunities to stop and rest.

Being travelers that enjoy a stop or two along the way, we took our break at a small town called Radolfzell, built right along the shore. In a parking lot at the edge of the city we prepared lunch from Martin's trunk full of goodies. After eating, we set out in an eastward direction and stumbled upon what looked to have once been an old train corridor, since the corridor was between 15 and 20 feet below street level. It was lined with trees and shrubbery and fenced off flower areas. Along the way, people walked along the blacktop pathway or sat under shade trees on wooden park benches. I also noticed gardeners thoughout the garden, digging, weeding and doing garden things.

It was a tremendous sight to be almost engulfed on a sea of colors-- intense red and lavender, bright yellow and orange and deep blue violet colors-- standing out amongst the canvas of dark, lush greenery. It was quite peaceful there, as we visited the garden beneath the city. While Martin and I were passing through this corridor, I was certain that my grandmother would have been in heaven had she been there to see it with her own eyes.

At the Shore

Conveniently, the corridor led us directly to the edge of the Lake of Constance. At the waters edge, there were several small restaurants, with outdoor terraces opposite a long pathway lined by ancient, gnarled trees and park benches. At the end of the path stood a telescope/binocular devce for viewing the lake and the Alps beyond. We stopped about halfway to the telescope to tke it easy and enjoy the lakefront scenery.

After a few minutes of relaxing, we continued on our walk to the end of the small peninsula to the telescope. The sky was a bit too hazy for viewing anything across the lake, though I did notice some markings on the base of the instrument indicating bearings of several mountain peaks that were invisible to us.

We spent several minutes there, looking out over the haze-covered lake before turning back for the car. At the beach, Geese, ducks, swans and seagulls approached us-- probably looking for food-- as we walked back along the stretch of sand, just before re-entering the botanical corridor. We enjoyed the walk back, and saw a variety of flowers that I had missed on our walk toward the lake.

Stein am Rhein

Just south of Radolfzell, we came to the Swiss border. From Martin's description, the Swiss in general are perfectionists, so it was no surprise that they stopped us and thoroughly checked our passports. I made sure to say thanks in English so I wouldnt raise any suspicions with the guards. As far as I know, it worked.

We found out later that German and French border posts area bit more easy going when it comes to checking passports allowing drivers to only flash their passport while driving through the gate. I guess that one might say that the Swiss guards are the Border Guards Border Guard.

Right after the border between Germany and Switzerland lies the old and small town of Stein am Rhein. When the name is translated to English, it literally it means Stone on the Rhine. The city was ancient and it very picturesque, complete with old and intricately detailed buildings dominating the architectural lanscape. It was as though this city was captured in time. Because Switzerland was a neutral country during WWII, the city had been untouched by any bombings leaving it for later generations to explore and enjoy.

We found a parking lot and began our exploration. As we walked down the cobblestone main street to the center of town, we passed several buildings that dated to around the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Many of the the old structures had beautiful, finely detailed paintings adorning their facades.

The most intricate of all Stein am Rhein''s buildings was the city hall or Rathaus. It was situated at the end of the main marketplace, facing the courtyard and the little shops and cafes that lined the street. I have to admit that some of the shops were pretty touristy, though this city was after all a tourist attraction, so I guess its to be expected.

Still, the opportunity of having a coffee at an outdoor cafe and a great view of the Rathaus building was irresistible. We found a table at a cafe directly across from the city hall building and ordered cappucino, and when it arrived, I spent the time sketching the beautiful old building while sipping my rich cup of java. It was quite an enjoyable afternoon.

After I had finished sketching, we took time time to walk around the rest of the city-- on some of the quieter and less commercial streets behind the maketplace. The streets quieted tremendously as we got father from the zentrum or center of the town. At one point, we walked over a bridge that spaned the Rhine and spent some time watching the Rhine river lazilly flow beneath us.

The Rheinfalls

At about four in afternoon, we walked back to the car, and continued the tour through Switzwerland. Our next stop was the city of Scaffhausen, home of the mighty Rheinfalls. The city is also quite old, though it had a more modern feeling-- not a tourist attraction, but a working and living city. The pace was that of a larger city, with apartment buildings, cars traffic lights and busses-- much different than neighboring Stein am Rhein.

We followed signs that led us on a twisting route through the city to the Rheinfalls. As we entered the parking lot just across from the falls, Martin spotted another visitor who was leaving-- as we approached him, he graciously gave us his still-valid parking ticket-- which I thought was quite nice of him.

The Rheinfalls are not very steep, like Niagra Falls are, but because of the rocks at the base of the falls, Clouds of mist from the tumbling waters billowed up and hung over the river. We could feel the cold, damp air on our faces as it slowly drifted across the river. Germany and Switzerland are divided at the falls, with the border falling right down the center of the cascading waters.

We stayed near the falls for a little while, enjoying the cool air and watching the tourboat that came along side the falls carrying tourists. I noticed that there were a variety of people at the Rheinfalls-- detecting their homes by the country stickers on the back of their automobiles. I saw many from France and Germany as well as a few from Great Britan.

On to Bonndorf

Martin remembered that we had to arrive at the youth hostel by seven, so we left the Rheinfalls and Scaffhausen behind as we forged on toward our final destination for the day-- Bonndorf. The drive across the Southwestern German countryside was quite pleasant, since it gave us some time to absorb and reflect on and all of the things that we had experienced that day.

At seven oclock we rolled into Bonndorf. We kept our eyes open for signs leadng to the youth hostel and eventually found a sign that led us directly to the hostel building. The exterior had been recently renovated, and looked very attractive. I hoped that it would be just as nice inside. Martin parked the car in the lot just outside of the hostel, and we walked up to and through the front door of the building.

No one was minding the office, so Martin called the number listed on the office window on a house phone down the hall. Moments later, a straggly-haired guy, dressed in a floppy green sweater walked up to the check-in window and opened the office to sign us in. I speculated that he was a college student-- maybe it was because of that wire-rimmed straggly-haired-floppy-green-sweatered-student look.

There was a pretty good chance that he was serving his government service during the summer, between semesters. In Germany young people are required to serve the country with some type of civil service after leaving high school. Most students join the army for a required term of 12 months, and those who opt for civil service are required to serve 15 months. Martin told me that the time required for service had recently been reduced from 20 months for civil service and 15 for the army.

The hostel had indeed been recently remodeled inside as well as outside. The rooms were clean and modern, with new bunk beds and dresser drawers. The restrooms and showers were especially impressive, complete with closed shower stalls and mirrors. Compared to the castle we had come from last night this was like the difference between Motel Six the Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

A German Gasthaus

It was eight oclock by the time we left the hostel in search of dinner. In Germany very few restaurants serve meals 24 hours a day like many do in the United States. Hot meals are usually served until a seven or eight in the evening, then coldcuts, sausages, bread and cheese are offered as a common late meal. We were very fortunate to find a gasthouse that was still open and serving warm food.

The gasthaus had a dark and inviting atmosphere. The furniture was constructed from a dark-stained wood, and appeared as if it had been hewn from one tree trunk. The tables were covered with several thick coatings of polyurethane-- probably to withstand the constant abuse from plates and glasses. The eating areas were dimly lit, which added to the warm, home-like atmosphere.

Our food arrived a few minutes after we ordered and it was very tasty and filling. We took our time eating, spending a portion of the meal discussing what we had done and ideas for the rest of the tour. It was a good change of pace to sit back and relax after all of the time spent on the road.

After dinner we walked back to the car and drove to Hostel Bonndorf. It was still early, so we spent some time talking and joking before retiring for the evening.

Sketches from 1993


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