Travelogue 1993 / Episode Five

Travelogue Deutschland 1993 / Episode Five

Breakfast and Dishes
The next morning we awakened and had an opportunity to enjoy another hostel breakfast. I think that of all the breakfast items my favorites were the rich coffee and Nutella on rolls. Nutella is a chocolate and hazelnut spread which is very popular in Germany. It tasted delicious on the crisp baked rolls provided with our meal.

After eating, we cleaned our table off and carried our plates, mugs and coffee container to the kitchen area for washing. A few of the kids who had already finished their breakfast were helping wash and dry dishes. When we began helping, the group of kids started to leave. They thought that they could just leave all of their dirty dishes for us to dry.

Martin immediately let them know that we werent about to wash the all of the dishes that they were responsible for and soon after, the student manager threatened to have them stay and dry all of the dishes. After drying our share we returned to our room to pack up our suitcases and bade farewell to Bonndorf.

On to Freiburg Today both Freiburg, Germany and Strassbourg, France were next on the agenda. Originally we had planned to take a route up over the Feldberg mountain pass, which is one of the highest in the region, but we thought it would be pointless because of the heavy rain and fog cover. Our route did take us through some high mountainous passes, over the Schwabish Alps into the Rhine valley.

After an hour drive we arrived in Freiburg and parked near the University of Frieburg. With umbrellas in our hands, we started out for the center of Freiburg, passing shops and restaurants and cafes all along the streets. For a rainy day it was much busier than I might have imagined.

Shops lined either side of the main street and usually had merchandise out in front of the store on the sidewalk. Most of the shops had awnings extended to protect their merchandise from the rain.

At one end of the main street was one of the gates to the city, called a Schwabentor. It was quite tall, and had a large clock near the top of the tower. The base of the tower was square, and wide enough for city trolleys and auto traffic to pass through the two archways built into the base of the tower and in an adjoining building. As we crossed the wide, wet cobblestone street, a streetcar came through the tower archway and lumbered past us.

International Market
As we continued exploring we happened upon an indoor marketplace and restaurant, that was hidden at the end of a quiet cobblestone alleyway. Passing through the doorway, I noticed a myriad of small shops inside, lining the walls and offering almost any food, freshly prepared for the customer. Martin wanted me to try some Turkish kebap which a popular food in Germany. Kebap has slightly different seasonings, but is very similar to the Greek gyro that is popular in the US.

Martin disappeared for a few minutes while I looked for a place to eat. It was a busy because of the lunch hour, so I was lucky to find a stand-up style table near the main walkway. Martin returned a few minutes later with two orders of kebap and Turkish tea. We happily consumed our meals while watching people wander past us in the International Food Market.

After lunch we walked back under as many ashop wnings as possible, until we reached the car. Drizzle continued to fall during our return trip, and my feet were thoroughly soaked when we arrived, from all of the puddle-jumping we had done. I had enjoyed our exploration in Freiburg but I was even happier to return to a dry car. Crossing into France We set out once again, with our new course set for Strassburg, France. Freiburg was not very far from the border, so we crossed the Rhine river and passed over the border into France.

Strassbourg, France
It was different in many ways from Germany, beginning with the immediate absence of all other languages except French. Even though the city was on the German border, and the people most likely knew German and English, we found that they would not speak German or English only French.

Germans spell the citys name as Strassburg while the French spelling is only slightly differentStrassburg. Martin mentioned that during the daytime the city was very beautiful and reasonably safe but at night it became quite a different place, notorious for robbery and auto theft. After some wandering around to find the center of town, we decided to park in a guarded lot. The attendant was helpful and friendly, graciously accepting Deutsch Marks for payment. Conveniently, the cost of parking at this particular lot included a bus ride into and out of the city.

We wanted to make sure that we caught the right bus, so Martin spent several minutes speaking with a French couple, first in German, then English and finally French. Using the bit of the language he remembered from high school, he managed to learn that we were on the correct bus.

Crash, Bang, Smash Em up Moments later the bus pulled up and the crowd of tourists began to board the vehicle. We were literally packed in the bus like sardines. Im glad that most of the riders had deodorant on, or it might have smelled like a can of sardines as well. Martin and I stood in the aisle near the front of the bus, holding on to the handrails as it jerked forward. We were off!

It didnt take long to realize that the driver was a bit wreckless. Within five minutes of leaving our stop he collided with another bus, which was stopped, picking up passengers at the curb. Scraping noises filled the bus from the friction of our bus mirror as it carved into the side of the parked bus. After coming to an abrupt halt, our driver began cursing in French at the other driver. I think I now understand the term pardon my French in a way I hadnt before.

The front doors swung open and the driver instructed a passenger to yank his bus mirror away from the other bus. Once the mirror had been freed, the driver put the pedal to the metal and took off. Eventually we arrived safely at the center of town and climbed off of the bus, happy to be in one piece.

After finding a currency exchange machine we translated a few Deutsch Marks into Francs and set out to visit the cathedral at the citys center.

Inside the Cathedral Strassburger Munster The cathedral Strassburger Munster was a massive red stone building with spires that reached hundreds of feet into the air. The courtyard around the cathedral was bustling with people including musicians, and beggars who surrounded the building, begging for money. Several artists had paintings on display or were drawing pastels for interested tourists all along the outer walls of the cathedral. Tall, thick wooden doors stood open at the front of the cathedral. We entered the sanctuary, and the atmosphere immediately changed. I could smell the essence of age in the cool air as it streamed out of the entryway. Inside, people roamed quietly through the sanctuary, looking at the beautiful, intricate stained glass windows. Throughout the cathedral ancient stone statues of Christ, Mary, the apostles and other antique sculptures. Paintings were also stationed throughout the cathedral. The sheer height of the ceiling amazed me and I wondered how the builders were able to create such a monument with the technology of their day.

On Top of the World After exploring the sanctuary we decided to climb to the top of the cathedral. On the opposite side of the cathedral we found the entrance, paid the fee and started our trek upward. Occasionally we had to move aside as tourists came down from above. The steps were worn into a concave shape from frequent use and barely wide enough for two people to comfortably pass each other.

When we arrived at the top, winds swirled past us as we stepped out onto the courtyard area. The bell tower which faced the courtyard, had a wall that seemed to be a memorial to the builders of the structure. Each stone mortared into the wall was engraved with an individuals name.

We stood against the protective fence and looked out over the city. The view of Strassburg from the cathedrals tower was spectacular. The winds that were gusting across the platform were even more intense at the edge of the tower.

After about thirty minutes of viewing the city from above, we left the tower of the cathedral and began the long climb down. The trip back to the bottom was a bit more nerve racking than the climb up, because one slip could end in a quick trip to the bottom. We managed to maintain our composure and safely found our way down to the foot of the stairs.

Sketches at a Street Cafe
Being tired from the climbing, we both agreed that a coffee break and some people watching would be a great way to relax. We wound our way through the narrow cobbled streets to a small outdoor cafe near the river. There we sat at a small table in the shade of a large, gnarly old tree drank coffee.

I took another opportunity to sketch the street cafe across from us while I intermittently took sips from my cup of espresso. Martin and I talked about the city and watched as people passed by.

In retrospect, I think that one of the most enjoyable parts of my trip to Europe was the experience of spending time at street cafes. To me, there was something special about street cafes I think it was the feeling of stopping and enjoying life as it passed by that seemed so relaxing.

A Prince in Our Midst
Leaving the cafe, wee continued our quest through the city. We met a very interesting person at an old stone bridge that crossed the Rhine river in Strassburg.

The Prince as we later called him, walked directly up to Martin motioning with a camera in hand, that Martin should use his camera and take his photo. We guessed that he was a prince because of his quite royal-looking crested blue blazer and the way in which he exercised his sovereign authority over Martin.

Martin was able to pick up enough French to understand the gentleman. He was from Brazzaville, Africa and was in France to study law. With the princes camera in hand, Martin followed the him to a specific point on the bridge and once satisfied with his location, the young ruler motioned that the royal photo shoot could now begin. After several shots, the prince thanked us and left us standing on the bridge chuckling with each other.

The Black Forest High Road
Knowing that a long trip lay ahead of us, Martin suggested that we get back on the road to Zavelstein. The return bus ride went quickly and smoothly, mostly due to the fact that a more relaxed driver was at the wheel. We were happy to find the car still in the parking lot with no missing pieces. All things considered, it seemed to be a nice country, with its own odd quirks.

The Autobahn northbound was clear, so we made good time to the exit for the Black Forest high road. This is a road that winds through the Black Forest over Swabian Alps, through wooded valleys and small towns. Motorcyclists love to test their bikes on this stretch of highway, so careful, defensive driving is important.

About halfway through the trip, we stopped at one of the dams on a river running through the forest to take photos. Within a few minutes, the sun had disappeared behind the tree-lined Swabian Alps.

Back Home in Zavelstein
It was dark as we reached Zavelstein, and found our way to Martin's house. After unloading the car Martin and I made some dinner. Afterward, I had a long conversation with Rolf, Martin's father about his dream of owning a classic Mercedes Benz.

Rolf and I wrapped up our conversation and I retired to the guest room. I attempted to stay awake and write journal entries which proved to be quite futile. My body had decided that sleep was more important than writing after a long day of walking. I soon gave in to my bodys request and called it a night.

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